VINTAGE JEWELLERY RESEARCH

Once you start collecting vintage jewellery, you start to come across certain manufacturer's names again and again.

My particular area of interest is Mens Vintage Jewellery & Accessories. These are the names I come across often:

• Swank
• Krementz
• Hickok
• Baer & Wilde
• Anson
• Dolan & Bullock

There are many more, but these are the main ones I come across regularly.

Vintage Jewellery Manufacturers

Finding out more about the jewellery manufacturers from the past can be a daunting task. Some are still producing jewellery today, so they might have websites with a page about company history.

Other manufacturers may have gone out of business long ago, so it is difficult to find out more information. For instance, in the past, wars have destroyed manufacturing houses and the companies were unable to rebuild their business from scratch. Sadly, sometimes bankruptcy forces a manufacturer to close its doors.

Why Research Your Vintage Jewellery?

Curiosity remains the biggest driver in vintage jewellery research.

Knowing a little information about where your vintage piece has come from helps to fill a void. Was your item of vintage jewellery from Europe? Or America? Or somewhere else?

Sometimes knowing about the manufacturer can help to date a piece. Knowing when a manufacturer commenced making jewellery, or when they commenced a particular product line, can be very helpful.

Where To Find Out More Information

There are books about vintage jewellery manufacturers. These can be very informative and helpful.

There is always the "old chestnut" Google. A wealth of information can always be located with a Google Search.

But if you want to have some of the hard work done for you, start with the Vintage Cove Jewellery Research Centre.

As I have been researching my own vintage jewellery items, I have been collating the information into this valuable resource tool. You are welcome to benefit from my hours of research, in the hope that we don't all have to reinvent the wheel every time.

So check out the Vintage Cove Jewellery Research Centre and enjoy!

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Related posts: Gold Markings

 
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GOLD MARKINGS

A reader recently asked about the marking "1/20 12K G.F." on a piece of jewellery. It occurred to me that others may be interested in the answer.

What does 12K mean?

Solid, pure gold is 24 Karat. Any rating less than 24K means there is another type of metal mixed into it. Pure gold is a very soft metal. Mixing with other metals helps to strengthen it. Just remember, when talking about gold purity, 24K is the pure form of gold.

The lower the number of karats, the stronger it will be. So 10K gold is stronger than 14K gold, and 14K gold is stronger than 18K gold.

For example:

• 24K has no additional metals, making it 100% pure gold.
• 18K is 18 parts gold, and 6 parts of one or more additional metals, making it 75% gold.
• 12K is 12 parts gold, and 12 parts of one or more additional metals, making it 50% gold.

The mixing of other metals with the gold is how gold variations came into existance, such as rose gold and white gold.

10 Karat is the minimum number of karats that can be marketed as Gold in the US. If you come across an item that is 8 karat, it will most like be of European origin. This may, in fact, help you to date a piece if you know when your ancestors migrated from Europe.

What does G.F. mean?

G.F. refers to the term Gold Filled. An item that is labelled gold-filled means that it has a layer of gold over the top of another non-precious base metal.

Gold-filled has been a long-accepted practice of producing quality jewellery that is much more hard-wearing, and cheaper, than equivalent articles of fine jewellery. The outer layer is gold, so it has the appearance of fine jewellery, but it has the additional strength of the base metal.

What does 1/20 12K G.F. mean?

A marking that says 1/20 12K G.F. means that the gold layer is 12K gold, and that the gold makes up at least 1/20th of the item's weight. Gold-filled is typically a thicker layer of gold than in gold-plated jewellery, meaning it will last better than gold-plated jewellery.

Assuming the same number of karats and the same mix of alloy metals, gold-filled jewellery has the same appearance as non-filled jewellery because the outer layer is exactly the same.

Gold Jewellery Online

When shopping for gold jewellery online, always look for a photograph of the gold markings. Sometimes they are hard to photograph. Sellers should always try to show a photograph of the gold markings as a form of proof to potential buyers.

Gold markings can be a little confusing at first, but once you start to learn a little about them they become less of a mystery.
 
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VINTAGE CLOTHING JEWELLERY & TEXTILES SHOW - SYDNEY

Bookmark this event in your diary so you don't miss it.
 
The Sydney Vintage Clothing, Jewellery & Textiles Show, held every April and October, is a massive gathering of all things Vintage. As well as the many sellers, there will also be presentations, lectures, demonstrations and entertainment. If vintage jewellery, watches, rings and accessories are your thing, you're sure to find something of interest. Vintage womens clothing, mens clothing, baby clothes, shoes, hairstyles - its all there!
 
All the elegance and style of Vintage fashion.
 
If you're really into it, pull your favourite vintage clothes from the wardrobe. Dress for the occasion and you could win a prize!
 
The Vintage Show is held at the Canterbury Racecourse, on 15-17 October 2010. A free shuttle bus will be running from Strathfield and Canterbury train stations.
 
For more information, check here: The Sydney Vintage Clothing, Jewellery & Textiles Show.
If you're planning a trip to Sydney, see if you can make it the same weekend as the Show.
 
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DRESS FOR SUCCESS - MENS OFFICE FASHION

If you want to be taken seriously, make an effort to look the part. The current trend toward casual dress for office workers has made people more lax about what they wear. You might be the smartest person in your team, but if you dress sloppily it is going to hold you back.

You and your colleague might be equally knowledgeable, but who is going to get that next promotion?

Okay, so neckties might not be commonplace at your office any more. But instead of a necktie, show some flair with a nice pair of cuff links, or a subtle belt buckle. And don't forget your feet. A good pair of shoes, in a well-maintained condition. All clothing should always look clean and fresh.

Look the part and your bosses will notice. Back it up with some knowledge and the sky's the limit!

Related Posts -

• Vintage is Back
• Classic Style
• Cuff Link Toggle Invention
• Vintage Swank Silver-Tone Cuff Links Dark MOP
• Vintage Mens Gold-Tone Cufflinks

Other Links -

• How To Dress For Success - Men
• Dress For Success
• Dress For Success - Men & Women - Office Fashion

What is your workplace dress-code like? Leave a comment to this post and share your fashion experiences.

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VINTAGE IS BACK

Recent times have seen a fantastic resurgence of interest in Vintage Accessories. Whether it is ladies or gents, people can't get enough of it. Just take a look at your local Op Shops. People are rummaging through clothing, vinyl records (LPs), chinaware, toys, you name it.

My preference is vintage jewellery. I find that vintage jewellery has a character that is not seen in today's modern pieces. Modern jewellery seems sterile by comparison. Clean and clinical.

Vintage jewellery is like an old soul. Unless it has been kept in its original packaging and never seen daylight, vintage jewellery comes with character. Like an elderly gent with greying hair, a few wrinkles, and a cheeky twinkle in his eye. Vintage jewellery might have fading colour, some minor scratches, and a gleem of intrigue.

Some people say that vintage jewellery talks to you, or you get a vibe from it. Others say it means a piece is haunted.

Sometimes it is a sense of pride that comes with your accessory. Did it belong to a grandparent, or a loved one? You get to tell its story, or even cheekily make one up. Who is going to argue that it didn't belong to your grandfather?

The pride you feel when someone asks you about a special accessory is amazing. You can't help but tell its story with gusto. A piece of jewellery that has been around longer than you have deserves at least that.

If you have a collection hidden away, treasure it and treat it with respect. Dust off your pieces and wear them proudly.

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WILD BILL HICKOK

Whether or not he used a card-cheaters clip, we will never know. But Wild Bill Hickok was certainly one of the Wild West boys.

Wild Bill grew up on a farm, became a stagecoach driver, a constable, a scout for the union army, and later a professional gambler, before returning to law enforcement. Hickok acheived fame after killing a number of outlaws. But his good deeds also produced many enemies.

When he played poker, he always sat with his back to the wall of the saloon, preferrably in a corner. He poured his drinks and handled cards with his left hand, so the hand holding his gun was always free.

His undoing came one afternoon when he had been unable to find a corner chair. With his back to the door, he was shot in the back of the head.

According to legend, he was holding a hand of two aces and two eights. Since then this goup of cards in poker is called a "dead man's hand".

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ANTIQUE CARD CHEATERS CLIP

This intriguing little clip is actually a gentleman's antique “Wizard” Cuff Holder from 1889. Back in the late 1800s, gents’ shirts came with detachable cuffs and collars so they could be easily replaced to give the appearance of a fresh clean shirt. This wonderful little gadget was designed to hold the cuffs in place.

Can you imagine what a wonder of modern technology this must have been!

Folklore suggests that the more imaginative of the Wild West poker players managed to use this gadget to hide an ace up the sleeve. With one end clipped to the clothing and the other end holding a hidden card.

I imagine this would have been a very difficult task to perfect. With your back to the wall, one eye scanning the room for would-be assassins, one eye on the cards and the pot and the other players. And somehow managing to fiddle with your sleeve to produce the elusive ace. All the while, not drawing attention to yourself or your cheating actions.

How stressful it must have been to live in those times. And let's not mention the dire consequences of getting caught cheating!

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CUFF LINK TOGGLE INVENTION

Have you ever given a thought to the cuff link toggle? Most people haven't.
US Patent 2472958 was granted in 1949 to Jacob M. Oldak, a jewellery designer from Brooklyn, New York. Mr Oldak was the inventor of the modern-day cuff link design, an invention that should have made him rich beyond his dreams.
Unfortunately, many of the large jewellery houses used his toggle design without crediting his invention. Mr Oldak spent a fortune on legal fees trying to protect his rights to this design. Swamped in legal fees, he eventually gave up the fight.
So spare a thought for poor Jacob next time you put on your cuff links. His invention made our lives so much easier, but not his own.
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TRASH AND TREASURE

One man's trash is another man's treasure. Nothing could be truer when it comes to vintage items. Many an item has been discarded by someone who doesn't see its worth. Luckily, we treasure hunters come along and give these beauties a new home.
For some, it is a leisurely stroll around a vintage marketplace. For others, the same marketplace can be a frenzied attack of systematically scouring the whole place to get to the treasure before the competition. And still others do their hunting online - with the whole world at their fingertips, and a cup of coffee in hand.
Whatever your preference of shopping style, there is treasure out there to be found. The internet gives you the opportunity to scavenge the whole country, or even other countries. This is a strange place to be in. We yearn for things from the past, but we use modern technology to put us in touch with these things from the past.
Perhaps that makes us the lucky generation.
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VINTAGE ANTIQUE 1897 EYEGLASS HOOK

I wanted to show you this handsome eyeglass hook. With an elegant design, similar to a safety pin, these hooks were pinned to the clothing and attached to a chain connected to the eyeglasses. See? Ever since glasses were invented, people have been forgetting where they put them. Hence, the invention of the eyeglass chain and hook.
This piece is from the late 1890s. It appears in the Sears Roebuck & Co Catalogue of 1897. The hooks listed in the Sears catalogue are rolled-gold or gold-filled. Elegant and impressive. A great conversation starter.

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VINTAGE ANTIQUE TIE CLASP - ESTATE - JAPANESE DAMASCENE

This handsome vintage damascene tie clasp features a beautiful Japanese landscape with Mount Fuji in the background. A remarkable antique piece, with the luxurious hue of yellow gold metal and matt black background. Elegant and impressive.

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VINTAGE JAPANESE DAMASCENE

Damascene, or Japanese Damascene, is a centuries-old art first brought to Japan about 2,000 years ago, reputedly form Damascus. Usually with steel as the base metal, items are produced through a lengthy process. A design is drawn and then transferred onto the metal surface with a fine chisel.
The outlines are cut and undercut before gold or silver threads are hammered into the tiny grooves. The item is then corroded with acid, cleaned with soda water, washed in salt water and baked over a fire. This process is repeated eight or nine times a day for at least five days.
Washed and baked until all the rust in the steel has been conducted out. The clean surface is then dipped into thick red-clay mud and baked again. This is repeated from 50 to 100 times. Then the surface is coated with powdered charcoal and oil, baked, and repeated from 10 to 20 times. Once cleaned of black powder, it is rubbed to a polish. The last step is to add any necessary carvings, monograms or handwritten names of the purchasers, if desired.
To retain the original polish, the article should be rubbed once a month with a soft cloth dipped in olive oil.
Here are some examples of stunning damascene pieces -

If you are lucky enough to own some damascene, take another look at it and marvel at the amount of work that has gone into it. Keep it clean and polished - a respectful status it deserves. And wear it with pride.
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Vintage ANSON Mens Gold-Tone Cuff Links Estate Square

This handsome pair of vintage cuff links display the brilliant glitter of yellow goldtone metal. The background is a lightly brushed surface. The feature line is a twisted goldtone strip laying inside a diagonal cut-out. They are very interesting and stunning cuff links.
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Vintage Mens Gold-Tone Cufflinks Scroll Panel Estate

This handsome pair of vintage goldtone cufflinks features magnificently detailed edging around a plain scroll panel.
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Vintage 1920 Mens SNAP-LINK Cuff Links - MOP - ART DECO

This stunning pair of vintage silvertone snap-link cufflinks have irridescent mother-of-pearl fronts. These cufflinks have the round head, which is more rare than the octagonal head. A remarkable antique piece, combining attactive silvertone metal with the deep lustre of carved mother-of-pearl. These cufflinks are from the 1920s and are in excellent condition - a tribute to their careful storage over the years.
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Vintage 1954 FOSTER Mens Gold-Tone Tie Clasp Clip Bar

This handsome vintage tie clasp features a diamond-shaped front. An alluring combination of matt and gloss finishes. This clasp was manufactured while its patent approval was still pending. The patent was approved in 1955.
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Vintage 1958 ADAMS Gold-Tone Tie Clasp Clip Bar - Pearl

This handsome vintage goldtone tie clasp features a small pearl held by a goldtone swirl setting. The pearl is 0.2cm across and has not been tested by a jeweller. The patent for this clasp was granted in 1958.
more information | view listing on eBay | purchase item on eBay
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Vintage Mens Gold-Tone Cufflinks - Copperstone - Nice

Compliment your outfit with this handsome pair of vintage goldtone cufflinks, featuring copperstone fronts. Copperstone is a composite material made from copper flecks.
Vintage Mens Gold-Tone Cufflinks - Copperstone - Nice

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Vintage SWANK Silver-Tone Chain-Link Cufflinks Dark MOP

Vintage SWANK Silver-Tone Chain-Link Cufflinks Dark MOP

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Back to Work Blues?

Haven't we all been there? Why won't the Lotto numbers come through for me?
Help ease your pain - buy yourself something nice. A back-to-work treat!
Come and have a look what's in the store -
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